Silke Mayr Life in the “Shein Village”
In Guangzhou’s Panyu district, the constant hum of sewing machines echoes through factory windows. Workers toil tirelessly, producing t-shirts, blouses, swimwear, and more. These clothes, destined for wardrobes in over 150 countries, originate from what locals call “Shein Village.” This area houses thousands of factories, the backbone of Shein’s global fast fashion empire.
“We work every day if there are 31 days in a month,” said one worker. Most workers report only one day off each month. Many log an average of 75 hours per week, far exceeding Chinese labour law limits.
The BBC, after visiting 10 factories and speaking to over 20 workers, uncovered troubling conditions. Long hours, minimal breaks, and piece-rate pay dominate. Some workers earn just one or two yuan per t-shirt, completing about a dozen per hour.
The bustling alleys of Panyu also double as labour markets. Here, temporary workers negotiate short-term contracts based on job ads and sample clothing. Amid rising living costs, many strive to earn enough to support families back home. Despite the challenges, workers keep the machines running until midnight to meet Shein’s massive demand.
Shein’s Meteoric Rise and Lingering Controversies
Shein, valued at around £36bn, has transformed fast fashion, outpacing H&M, Zara, and Primark. Its vast online inventory and ultra-low prices attract millions of shoppers globally. Dresses for £10 and sweaters for £6 keep customers coming back, while Guangzhou factories churn out garments to meet soaring demand.
However, Shein faces growing scrutiny. Critics question its labour practices, including allegations of excessive hours and child labour. In response, Shein stated its commitment to worker rights, investing millions to improve compliance and governance. Still, rights groups argue that these measures fall short.
In addition, accusations about sourcing cotton from Xinjiang have heightened pressure. Human rights groups allege forced labour involving the Uyghur minority, which Beijing denies. To address this, experts suggest increased transparency, such as publicizing factory lists and supply chain details.
Despite controversies, Shein’s supply chain efficiency gives it a competitive edge. Unlike rivals in Vietnam and Bangladesh, which import raw materials, China provides Shein with all components locally. This advantage enables rapid production, driven by algorithms tracking consumer preferences.
Behind the Bargains
Shein’s business model relies on cost-cutting. Factory owners, bound by fixed prices, struggle to maintain profits, often at the expense of worker wages. Yet, Shein ensures timely payments, which suppliers value.
“Shein is trustworthy,” said one supplier. “Payments are always on time, whether millions or tens of millions.” For some, Shein represents pride in China’s contribution to global fashion.
Still, the toll on workers is undeniable. Hours are long, and wages are often low. Yet, for many, this work provides an essential lifeline. “We are like a family,” said a supervisor, describing camaraderie among workers despite the grueling pace.
As workers return to factories after dinner, the lights in several buildings stay on. Some will work until midnight, driven by the promise of extra earnings. Meanwhile, shoppers in cities like London and Chicago browse for their next budget-friendly outfit, unaware of the effort behind each stitch.