Silke Mayr A new expedition promises a one-week ascent to Mount Everest’s summit, using xenon gas to replace traditional acclimatization. The ambitious plan, proposed by Austrian guide Lukas Furtenbach, has raised alarms among mountaineers and medical experts. Critics question the safety and scientific validity of bypassing months of acclimatization to achieve a quicker ascent. With a €150,000 price tag, the one-week Everest expedition is sparking fierce debate in the climbing community.
From Two-Month Odyssey to Week-Long Challenge
When Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay first summited Mount Everest in 1953, their journey took more than two months. Their team spent weeks at high altitudes to help their bodies adjust to the harsh, low-oxygen environment. Repeated climbs, installing ladders and ropes, and setting up high-altitude camps were essential parts of their process, which mirrored a military siege strategy.
In contrast, modern mountaineers benefit from Sherpa-installed ropes and better logistics, yet the typical Everest climb still takes at least two months. Climbers usually take one week to trek to Base Camp, followed by up to 40 days to reach the summit. Some guiding companies have shortened this to two-week expeditions with pre-acclimatization techniques.
Introducing the “One-Week Everest” Expedition
This climbing season, Lukas Furtenbach is challenging traditional mountaineering norms with his “one-week Everest” expedition. The plan promises to take clients from London to the summit in just seven days. Upon arriving in Kathmandu, clients will take a helicopter to Base Camp and begin their climb immediately, bypassing the traditional multi-week acclimatization process.
Furtenbach’s ambitious plan comes at a steep price—approximately €150,000 per person. It has raised eyebrows in the mountaineering community due to its radical approach. Central to the plan is the use of xenon gas, a rare inert gas, to accelerate the body’s acclimatization process. Furtenbach argues that inhaling xenon gas could mimic the gradual acclimatization that typically occurs over weeks of exposure to high altitudes.
Can Xenon Really Replace Acclimatization?
Xenon’s potential role in mountaineering lies in its ability to increase erythropoietin (EPO), a hormone that stimulates red blood cell production. This process occurs naturally when oxygen levels are low. As the body produces more red blood cells, it enhances oxygen delivery to tissues and organs. Acclimatization typically occurs through gradual exposure, with climbers making repeated ascents and descents to adapt.
Furtenbach believes that xenon could accelerate this natural process. His team tested the method during climbs in 2020, with encouraging results. However, there is limited scientific research supporting xenon’s efficacy in altitude acclimatization. A comprehensive review of existing studies found no strong evidence to suggest that xenon significantly increases EPO production or improves performance at high altitudes.
Medical experts remain skeptical about Furtenbach’s claims. Andrew Peacock, a professor of altitude medicine, questions whether xenon can truly stimulate enough red blood cell production to support a rapid ascent.
Expert Skepticism and Medical Concerns
The concept of using xenon for rapid acclimatization has not gone unnoticed by medical professionals. The International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation has issued a warning regarding the lack of clinical trials on the use of xenon in high-altitude conditions. Concerns have also been raised about the risks of blood clots caused by artificially boosting EPO levels.
Adrian Ballinger, an American mountaineering guide, highlights that using substances like xenon to enhance EPO production is banned in competitive sports. While anti-doping regulations do not apply to mountaineering expeditions, some climbers worry about the ethical implications of using such techniques.
Despite the controversy, Furtenbach believes that reducing the time spent at high altitudes will minimize the risks associated with extreme weather and altitude-related illnesses. He already offers a “flash” expedition that shortens the climb by using pre-acclimatization methods at home.
Battling Thin Air at the Roof of the World
Mount Everest presents one of the most extreme environments on Earth. The oxygen levels at the summit are a third of those at sea level, and climbers face additional challenges such as extreme cold, high winds, and low air pressure. These conditions can impair brain function and lead to acute mountain sickness, brain swelling, and even death.
Climbers typically rely on supplemental oxygen above 8,000 meters, in the so-called “Death Zone,” to avoid life-threatening conditions. In fact, only 230 of the over 7,000 climbers who have reached Everest’s summit have done so without supplemental oxygen.
Peacock explains that oxygen supplementation helps climbers perform better by mimicking a lower-altitude environment. Despite the benefits of supplemental oxygen, it remains controversial, with some mountaineers viewing its use as a form of performance enhancement.
The Ethics of Climbing with Aid
Mountaineers have long used drugs and medications to survive harsh conditions. In 1953, climber Hermann Buhl completed the first solo ascent of Nanga Parbat with the aid of methamphetamine pills. More recently, climbers have used medications like acetazolamide (Diamox) to speed acclimatization and dexamethasone to treat altitude sickness.
Some experts argue that using performance-enhancing substances like xenon raises ethical concerns. However, in the context of guided expeditions, where anti-doping rules do not apply, many climbers are less concerned about the potential risks and benefits of such substances.
Testing the Xenon Hypothesis
Medical researchers continue to explore the use of performance-enhancing drugs for mountaineers. Xenon, a substance used in medicine, space travel, and military applications, has shown promise in initial studies. A 45-minute inhalation of xenon reportedly increases EPO levels and can last for up to two weeks.
While the initial results are intriguing, the evidence remains inconclusive. Critics argue that even if xenon boosts red blood cell production, it may not be enough to enable a one-week ascent of Everest.
Furtenbach remains confident in his plan. He intends to test the strategy with four British clients in May, despite the skepticism surrounding the approach. If successful, it could change the way mountaineers approach the world’s tallest peak. However, until then, the climbing community will continue to watch with anticipation and concern.
The debate over the use of xenon gas in mountaineering highlights the tension between innovation and tradition. While the promise of a faster, safer ascent is appealing, the risks and uncertainties cannot be overlooked. As medical experts continue to examine the effects of xenon and other performance-enhancing substances, climbers and mountaineers will have to weigh the potential benefits against the dangers of pushing the boundaries of high-altitude climbing.